Tools List and MFT list

[chrisgc1977]

Hi all,

I have passed my Part P and have Domestic Installers and just passed the 17the Editions Regs.

I am looking at just doing small domestic work in the near future and was wondering if anyone could give me some more info on what I would need to start up as my Mum has very kindly said she would help with a small startup ****.

Things like the following:-

1) hand tools, ie brand of screwdrivers, cutters etc.

2) Electrical tools I might need ie for chasing.

3) What voltage detector and proving unit

4) What megger should I go for (as have trained with one) am looking at MFT1552 or would you recommend the 1553 with on sit software (and if the 1553 with on site what is would you take on site ie. laptop or pda).

5) Also what competant person scheme should I apply for (edging more towards NICIEC or Elecsa)

All your help would be much appreciated and hope I have this in the right topic section.

Kind regards
Chris

[Bikeelec]

Hi all,

I have passed my Part P and have Domestic Installers and just passed the 17the Editions Regs.

I am looking at just doing small domestic work in the near future and was wondering if anyone could give me some more info on what I would need to start up as my Mum has very kindly said she would help with a small startup ****.

Things like the following:-

1) hand tools, ie brand of screwdrivers, cutters etc.
Anything Knipex / CK / Irazola

2) Electrical tools I might need ie for chasing.

Chasing gun or drill with chuck stop / chisel action
3) What voltage detector and proving unit

I use a Fluke volt stick but never used a proving unit4) What megger should I go for (as have trained with one) am looking at MFT1552 or would you recommend the 1553 with on sit software (and if the 1553 with on site what is would you take on site ie. laptop or pda).

1552 will be more than adequate

5) Also what competant person scheme should I apply for (edging more towards NICIEC or Elecsa)

Pay your money and take your chance. They all do more or less the same thing. NIC has control over the market but it doesn't mean they are the best. I have to join NIC because my clients (Housing associations) insist on it. If they didn't I would join NAPIT or Elecsa.

All your help would be much appreciated and hope I have this in the right topic section.

Kind regards
Chris

Good luck!

[Amelia]

I know since we are all over the country these will not apply to all but..

What internet site, stores or places have you found to be the cheapest and most reliable business to buy from?

[Central Scrutinizer]

you have a choice with the meggers, get the 1552/1553 or alternatively just sit in the house banging your head against the wall - either way you will not get any testing done and will feel pretty bad

oh and get a decent phone contract and put Megger's customer service number in as a speed dial:mad:

[topsparky]

you have a choice with the meggers, get the 1552/1553 or alternatively just sit in the house banging your head against the wall - either way you will not get any testing done and will feel pretty bad

oh and get a decent phone contract and put Megger's customer service number in as a speed dial:mad:

ha ha ha
how true

i've got an alphatek all in one
and i'm pretty happy with that
:cool::cool:

[rocker]

I am using a DiLog 9083p and I must say it is top notch. If you get the harness that comes with it (or sew your own like me) you have all the buttons right there facing you, you don't have to fanny about feeling round the side for the test button like on a megger. Also you do a 3 lead test for your Ze/Zs and it gives your your prospective fault I at the same time, rather than doing another test. ALSO it comes with a 'prong' thing as well as the 3 standard leads and a moulded plug lead, which is just a solid probe that you can stick out of the top of the unit, and hold the unit in one had, crocodile/push on the other leads and press test at the same time whilst looking at what you are doing.

Only downsides I have come across thus far is that it is not a rechageable unit - you have to put 6 aa batteries in it (yes I use rechargeables but its a pain having to unscrew it, charge batteries, remember to put them back in - I am loathe to 'modify' it to charge from the plug-lead whilst it is under warranty). AND it doesn't like to read very very low resistances (seems to start at about 0.04 ohms) which isn't really a big deal.